Hey Dolls! Ok, so I started sewing my DIY high waisted jeans at the beginning of December with the intentions of finishing by December 31st. And I was doing good until…work got crazy, holidays came around, traveling, family visiting…just a lot of stuff was happening and I am behind. WAYYYY behind. But I currently have done the complete pattern rub off (more on that later), transferred the pattern to paper and am currently constructing my muslin. So progress is being made. YAY! As my first update post for the P.O.M. (Project of the Month) I thought I’d discuss my experience with rubbing off a pattern from ready to wear clothing.
So, I’m sure you have a couple of pieces of ready to wear that you are dying to recreate and unfortunately the only way to really get a pattern from it would be to take it apart, copy each piece and then put it back together again. But doing this introduces distortion and just overall causes problems. So to prevent this you can do what is called a pattern rub off, where you literally rub off the shape of each piece onto pattern paper or in my case silk organza.
I got this particular technique from Kenneth D. King. He has a class on craftsy.com that I am using as a guide during this project and it is really great.
Here are the general steps on how to rub off a pattern:
Note: I am only providing general steps because the process is kind of long and I am probably not the best teacher for this. Andddddd because I did the entire process over like 3 different days, I forgot to photograph after step 2! :-/
1.) Mark all seam lines and grain lines with a contrasting color thread or yarn on the ready to wear garment
2.) Use a lightly colored, matte silk organza and artist pencils to mark the vertical and cross-wise grain lines on the silk organza
3.) Pin the silk organza grain lines to the garment and use the artists pencils (I just used regular old colored pencils) to rub off all seam lines and grain lines you marked on your ready to wear. Be as accurate as possible!
4.) Use a thicker pattern paper and mark perpendicular lines to indicate vertical and crosswise grain
5.) Pin silk organza to the corresponding grain lines on the pattern paper and use carbon paper and tracing wheel to transfer the pattern on the silk organza to the pattern paper. I created three separate pieces, one for the back pant leg, the yoke and the front pant leg. You may have to do more or less depending on the garment you are trying to recreate.
6.) True up all lines, make pattern notes (ex. center back, outside seam, inseam etc.) and take final measurements of the garment and the pattern you’ve made on paper to ensure accuracy
7.) Fix any mistakes after measuring, add seam allowance and create your muslin
I know I know this sounds like a lot! And it is. It took me days to do it all. But it’s not difficult and because this is the P.O.M. (the first one at that!) and my first time making ready to wear jeans I want to take as much time and care as possible. Plus I want to be able to use this pattern to make other high waisted jeans, I already have 3 different styles in mind!! The whole purpose of the monthly project was to help me master difficult sewing techniques and to help me s l o w down my projects and sewing take more care and value into what I’m doing and trust me this process has done just that lol!
Here are some pictures I captured of the process. There are a couple things I’d do differently but this post is getting long and I’ll save all my thoughts until I have made the finished product.
Tell me what you guys think. I know the process seems long but I just think in this situation the longer it takes to prepare, the better the results!